Okay, I know. It's been a week since I last posted, I've fallen off the mark. My excuses are as follows: 1. very busy final days, which included a lot of traveling, 2. lack of Internet access (or the necessary 10 bht pieces for Internet), 3. I got sick from food poisoning at the Shanghai airport on our way back, and am still recovering from the various related events coming from that, 4. classes just started. Sue me.
Now that that's been covered, back to the point!
We spent another day or so in Mae Sot, visiting the Friendship Bridge right at the border between Thailand and Burma, meeting with some last organizations, and being stalked by minglaba-man, before heading back to Chiang Mai on Friday morning. There again, we held meetings and an evening monk chat at MCU Buddhist University. That night we said goodbyes to our stellar van drivers Neung and Oo (Oh? Eau?) so that in the morning we took two large tuk-tuks to the Chiang Mai airport to fly to Bangkok once more. The scheduled meeting there fell through, which I don't think too many of us were upset about-- at that point we had hit maximum exhaustion level. So instead we spent our last group dinner at the nearby restaurant Cabbages and Condoms, which actively promotes the use of birth control and safe sex, even giving out free condoms to its patrons and having a gift shop at the entrance. Oh yeah, that was interesting. We didn't get much rest though, as we soon made our way to Bangkok's international airport for a 2AM flight to Shanghai, China (thanks to Fan's awesomeness, I think this went relatively smoothly considering how much trouble the China Eastern airline had given us during the trip about Ben's ticket. Why it should be invalid just because he didn't use the first one is beyond me).
Phase 1 of return journey complete, we set ourselves up for a 12 hour layover-- some of the group decided to go out and see some of Shanghai in all its rainy glory, some of us decided to park it in the terminal and wait it out. I would love to describe all the adventures that the explorers of Shanghai got into, but I myself don't really recall their stories for the reason mentioned above. And the layover turned into a 15.5 hour one anyways, so we all ended up waiting there a long time.
The 13-14 hour flight was relatively uneventful, far less bouncy than our ride out of Bangkok anyways (Amanda and I were pretty sure we were going to crash and burn). Or at least I hope it was for the rest of the group. Suffice it to say that the flight attendants took the best care of me they could.
When we finally landed in JFK at 1AM, I think we were all singing the praises of America. And, like a guardian angel, our bus driver was right there waiting for us when we came out with our luggage, ready to drive us all the way down to American University (arriving at about 5AM) without disaster. At which point our journey together officially ceased.
So. This could potentially be this blog's final update. But it may not be. After all, we're all feeling fairly determined to act on what we've seen and learned.
Jan 13, 2010
Jan 6, 2010
The past few days...
We drove from Chiang Mai on Monday night, arriving in the border town of Mae Sot at 1AM. We had to wake up early Tuesday after our bumpy night, and went to a primary school for the children of 'migrant workers' (often the term given to Burmese refugees by Thai officials so they don't have to take responsibility for them). The headmaster had managed to aquire his own land and build real buildings there for the first time in the past several months, and it looked beautiful despite being far below American standards (and even American realities). After explaining a little bit about his school, the kids gathered in a large circle (with us included) and sang songs to us while the headmaster led with a guitar. They were delightful, with a chue-chue train that we all marched in and singing the hokey-pokey (they learned that from last year's trip-group). The last one, they 'flew' to their classrooms to start the day off happy-- the headmaster said that since these kids have such upsetting backgrounds, it was important to make them feel happy in order for them to learn.
Alexis and I went to the nursery, where we were horrible distractions for the teacher of almost 30 under-3 or 4 year olds. They loved us. At one point I had about 6 tickling me into submission, or playing with my hair, etc. ...
Our next meeting was with a monk who had fled Burma in 2003. He took us to a dump. Why you ask? Because people who had escaped forced labor and forced portage and any number of other brutalities in Burma live there. And this is not some gated dump with layers of plastic to protect the soil under the garbage like in America. There was a lake nearby where the people would swim. There was a small primary school for the numerous children living there, black with filth. Now, there had been tentative plans for a visit to this site but originally we thought we wouldn't have time for it, so no one was dressed properly. Aka, most of us were in sandals, myself included. We walked up the path the garbage trucks went, following the monk and helping him hand out cookies to everyone. The deeper we went, the worse the stench got. From a basic sickly sweet to a truely naseating rot. 300 people live there. They make money selling plastics for recycling-- I saw a number of the adults just climbing the hills of garbage harvesting the stuff. They never leave, because they have no documents, and the Thai police already raid them a few times a year and abuse or deport others. Ash littered the ground and blanketed our feet. At one point we saw their well, with a sign in their language charging a 500 baht fee to anyone who soiled the water (enormous sum of money. $15 USD). Suddenly, 2 dump trucks arrived and dropped such a huge amount of garbage that the path was blocked. The people took up a battle cry, running for the best plastics with worn out sickles while children and dogs ran around nearby. A number of our group got stuck on an abandoned CAT shoveler, while some of us (myself included) braved the knee-deep garbage to get away from the frenzy. Honestly, at this point I was ready to throw up. We had all been devasted by what the monk called our 'extreme first-time experience'-- I don't think it was his intention to have us see quite that much, although obviously he wanted to spread word.
But then, some boys came by playing soccer, and 2 other girls and I joined in. And I honestly forgot I was in a dump. There were boys racing around with trashed kites, having a blast making airplane sounds as they ran up and down the path... All of us are still smarting from the scene, from the disgusting nature of the situation. But the monk said that one of the women he was talking to said it was still better than Burma. Ya know, that's not exactly a good thing.
We had another meeting yesterday, talking about political prisoners. Also depressing and exhausting.
Today, we met with an ethnic group organization (there are tons) in the morning, and went to a clinic for Burmese-- some travel days and brave the border crossing just to get treatment there because there is literally nothing in Burma (or there is for a price). And yet they offer so many kinds of care and are relatiely organized. They do a great, amazing service to 400-500 people per day. Most of their staff is volunteer. But the conditions are upsetting. Just like the rest of Thailand, there were dogs and chickens roaming about, as most of the buildings were open air/ semi-outdoors.
We later met with a group that directly helps Burmese women in bad situations of abuse or HIV/AIDS or other things, getting them safe houses or medicine (along with a million other services). But the best part of that trip was going to an orphanage they run. Just 20 minutes or so. We walked in the front gate and in a small concrete front 'yard' so to speak were attacked by delighted chidren. Absolutely beautiful children!
Finally, we went to the 'Friendship Bridge,' which connects Mae Sot to a border town on the Burma side of the Moei (sp?) River. Basically it looks like highway, and we could see migrant workers walking back to the Burma side from where we were standing on a walkway down below. During the rainy season the water levels rise to the walkway, but as it's the dry season right now, the riverbed next to the walkway (a couple hundred yards from the Burmese town) was full of grass and a shanty village which often sells drugs across the handrails into Thailand (although there are legitimate sales of sodas or food as well).
Alexis and I went to the nursery, where we were horrible distractions for the teacher of almost 30 under-3 or 4 year olds. They loved us. At one point I had about 6 tickling me into submission, or playing with my hair, etc. ...
Our next meeting was with a monk who had fled Burma in 2003. He took us to a dump. Why you ask? Because people who had escaped forced labor and forced portage and any number of other brutalities in Burma live there. And this is not some gated dump with layers of plastic to protect the soil under the garbage like in America. There was a lake nearby where the people would swim. There was a small primary school for the numerous children living there, black with filth. Now, there had been tentative plans for a visit to this site but originally we thought we wouldn't have time for it, so no one was dressed properly. Aka, most of us were in sandals, myself included. We walked up the path the garbage trucks went, following the monk and helping him hand out cookies to everyone. The deeper we went, the worse the stench got. From a basic sickly sweet to a truely naseating rot. 300 people live there. They make money selling plastics for recycling-- I saw a number of the adults just climbing the hills of garbage harvesting the stuff. They never leave, because they have no documents, and the Thai police already raid them a few times a year and abuse or deport others. Ash littered the ground and blanketed our feet. At one point we saw their well, with a sign in their language charging a 500 baht fee to anyone who soiled the water (enormous sum of money. $15 USD). Suddenly, 2 dump trucks arrived and dropped such a huge amount of garbage that the path was blocked. The people took up a battle cry, running for the best plastics with worn out sickles while children and dogs ran around nearby. A number of our group got stuck on an abandoned CAT shoveler, while some of us (myself included) braved the knee-deep garbage to get away from the frenzy. Honestly, at this point I was ready to throw up. We had all been devasted by what the monk called our 'extreme first-time experience'-- I don't think it was his intention to have us see quite that much, although obviously he wanted to spread word.
But then, some boys came by playing soccer, and 2 other girls and I joined in. And I honestly forgot I was in a dump. There were boys racing around with trashed kites, having a blast making airplane sounds as they ran up and down the path... All of us are still smarting from the scene, from the disgusting nature of the situation. But the monk said that one of the women he was talking to said it was still better than Burma. Ya know, that's not exactly a good thing.
We had another meeting yesterday, talking about political prisoners. Also depressing and exhausting.
Today, we met with an ethnic group organization (there are tons) in the morning, and went to a clinic for Burmese-- some travel days and brave the border crossing just to get treatment there because there is literally nothing in Burma (or there is for a price). And yet they offer so many kinds of care and are relatiely organized. They do a great, amazing service to 400-500 people per day. Most of their staff is volunteer. But the conditions are upsetting. Just like the rest of Thailand, there were dogs and chickens roaming about, as most of the buildings were open air/ semi-outdoors.
We later met with a group that directly helps Burmese women in bad situations of abuse or HIV/AIDS or other things, getting them safe houses or medicine (along with a million other services). But the best part of that trip was going to an orphanage they run. Just 20 minutes or so. We walked in the front gate and in a small concrete front 'yard' so to speak were attacked by delighted chidren. Absolutely beautiful children!
Finally, we went to the 'Friendship Bridge,' which connects Mae Sot to a border town on the Burma side of the Moei (sp?) River. Basically it looks like highway, and we could see migrant workers walking back to the Burma side from where we were standing on a walkway down below. During the rainy season the water levels rise to the walkway, but as it's the dry season right now, the riverbed next to the walkway (a couple hundred yards from the Burmese town) was full of grass and a shanty village which often sells drugs across the handrails into Thailand (although there are legitimate sales of sodas or food as well).
Jan 5, 2010
Jan 2, 2010
Jan 1, 2, 3: Long time no see!
Howdy folks! Sorry for the long wait, it took me a while to get to a computer!\
To finish up what happened on Jan 1, 2010, we made our way to Chiang Mai via the Nok airline after lunch (I personally was excited about getting to have south Indian dosas). Not a bad flight, and when enough taxis eventually showed up we went to the Riverside Inn, which is lovely and far less crowded than Suk 11. Together, we went out to dinner where Christy tried out the local dish "Kow Soi," which involves noodles, fried noodles, peppers, onions, and a meat/tofu in a broth-- semi-spicy and delicious!
Yesterday a man from Free Burma Rangers came to talk to us in the morning, first by showing us a powerpoint and talking with us about the specifics of cross-border aid to the Burmese, then showing us a short video they had compiled. Later, we went to a sacred wat (Buddhist temple) housing a relic in its 'cheda,' I believe called Wat Dan Suthep (although I'm not sure about that 'Dan'). The 'cheda' was a tall, gold covered shape, surrounded by circuambulating believers-- and some of our group! From there we went to a vegetarian restaurant for dinner (alas, our poor meat eaters!) and met Zoe, a woman working with an AU alum on a new book in the series 'Voices of Witness,
To finish up what happened on Jan 1, 2010, we made our way to Chiang Mai via the Nok airline after lunch (I personally was excited about getting to have south Indian dosas). Not a bad flight, and when enough taxis eventually showed up we went to the Riverside Inn, which is lovely and far less crowded than Suk 11. Together, we went out to dinner where Christy tried out the local dish "Kow Soi," which involves noodles, fried noodles, peppers, onions, and a meat/tofu in a broth-- semi-spicy and delicious!
Yesterday a man from Free Burma Rangers came to talk to us in the morning, first by showing us a powerpoint and talking with us about the specifics of cross-border aid to the Burmese, then showing us a short video they had compiled. Later, we went to a sacred wat (Buddhist temple) housing a relic in its 'cheda,' I believe called Wat Dan Suthep (although I'm not sure about that 'Dan'). The 'cheda' was a tall, gold covered shape, surrounded by circuambulating believers-- and some of our group! From there we went to a vegetarian restaurant for dinner (alas, our poor meat eaters!) and met Zoe, a woman working with an AU alum on a new book in the series 'Voices of Witness,
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