Jan 13, 2010

Retrospect...

Okay, I know. It's been a week since I last posted, I've fallen off the mark. My excuses are as follows: 1. very busy final days, which included a lot of traveling, 2. lack of Internet access (or the necessary 10 bht pieces for Internet), 3. I got sick from food poisoning at the Shanghai airport on our way back, and am still recovering from the various related events coming from that, 4. classes just started. Sue me.

Now that that's been covered, back to the point!

We spent another day or so in Mae Sot, visiting the Friendship Bridge right at the border between Thailand and Burma, meeting with some last organizations, and being stalked by minglaba-man, before heading back to Chiang Mai on Friday morning. There again, we held meetings and an evening monk chat at MCU Buddhist University. That night we said goodbyes to our stellar van drivers Neung and Oo (Oh? Eau?) so that in the morning we took two large tuk-tuks to the Chiang Mai airport to fly to Bangkok once more. The scheduled meeting there fell through, which I don't think too many of us were upset about-- at that point we had hit maximum exhaustion level. So instead we spent our last group dinner at the nearby restaurant Cabbages and Condoms, which actively promotes the use of birth control and safe sex, even giving out free condoms to its patrons and having a gift shop at the entrance. Oh yeah, that was interesting. We didn't get much rest though, as we soon made our way to Bangkok's international airport for a 2AM flight to Shanghai, China (thanks to Fan's awesomeness, I think this went relatively smoothly considering how much trouble the China Eastern airline had given us during the trip about Ben's ticket. Why it should be invalid just because he didn't use the first one is beyond me).

Phase 1 of return journey complete, we set ourselves up for a 12 hour layover-- some of the group decided to go out and see some of Shanghai in all its rainy glory, some of us decided to park it in the terminal and wait it out. I would love to describe all the adventures that the explorers of Shanghai got into, but I myself don't really recall their stories for the reason mentioned above. And the layover turned into a 15.5 hour one anyways, so we all ended up waiting there a long time.

The 13-14 hour flight was relatively uneventful, far less bouncy than our ride out of Bangkok anyways (Amanda and I were pretty sure we were going to crash and burn). Or at least I hope it was for the rest of the group. Suffice it to say that the flight attendants took the best care of me they could.

When we finally landed in JFK at 1AM, I think we were all singing the praises of America. And, like a guardian angel, our bus driver was right there waiting for us when we came out with our luggage, ready to drive us all the way down to American University (arriving at about 5AM) without disaster. At which point our journey together officially ceased.

So. This could potentially be this blog's final update. But it may not be. After all, we're all feeling fairly determined to act on what we've seen and learned.

Jan 6, 2010

The past few days...

We drove from Chiang Mai on Monday night, arriving in the border town of Mae Sot at 1AM. We had to wake up early Tuesday after our bumpy night, and went to a primary school for the children of 'migrant workers' (often the term given to Burmese refugees by Thai officials so they don't have to take responsibility for them). The headmaster had managed to aquire his own land and build real buildings there for the first time in the past several months, and it looked beautiful despite being far below American standards (and even American realities). After explaining a little bit about his school, the kids gathered in a large circle (with us included) and sang songs to us while the headmaster led with a guitar. They were delightful, with a chue-chue train that we all marched in and singing the hokey-pokey (they learned that from last year's trip-group). The last one, they 'flew' to their classrooms to start the day off happy-- the headmaster said that since these kids have such upsetting backgrounds, it was important to make them feel happy in order for them to learn.
Alexis and I went to the nursery, where we were horrible distractions for the teacher of almost 30 under-3 or 4 year olds. They loved us. At one point I had about 6 tickling me into submission, or playing with my hair, etc. ...
Our next meeting was with a monk who had fled Burma in 2003. He took us to a dump. Why you ask? Because people who had escaped forced labor and forced portage and any number of other brutalities in Burma live there. And this is not some gated dump with layers of plastic to protect the soil under the garbage like in America. There was a lake nearby where the people would swim. There was a small primary school for the numerous children living there, black with filth. Now, there had been tentative plans for a visit to this site but originally we thought we wouldn't have time for it, so no one was dressed properly. Aka, most of us were in sandals, myself included. We walked up the path the garbage trucks went, following the monk and helping him hand out cookies to everyone. The deeper we went, the worse the stench got. From a basic sickly sweet to a truely naseating rot. 300 people live there. They make money selling plastics for recycling-- I saw a number of the adults just climbing the hills of garbage harvesting the stuff. They never leave, because they have no documents, and the Thai police already raid them a few times a year and abuse or deport others. Ash littered the ground and blanketed our feet. At one point we saw their well, with a sign in their language charging a 500 baht fee to anyone who soiled the water (enormous sum of money. $15 USD). Suddenly, 2 dump trucks arrived and dropped such a huge amount of garbage that the path was blocked. The people took up a battle cry, running for the best plastics with worn out sickles while children and dogs ran around nearby. A number of our group got stuck on an abandoned CAT shoveler, while some of us (myself included) braved the knee-deep garbage to get away from the frenzy. Honestly, at this point I was ready to throw up. We had all been devasted by what the monk called our 'extreme first-time experience'-- I don't think it was his intention to have us see quite that much, although obviously he wanted to spread word.
But then, some boys came by playing soccer, and 2 other girls and I joined in. And I honestly forgot I was in a dump. There were boys racing around with trashed kites, having a blast making airplane sounds as they ran up and down the path... All of us are still smarting from the scene, from the disgusting nature of the situation. But the monk said that one of the women he was talking to said it was still better than Burma. Ya know, that's not exactly a good thing.
We had another meeting yesterday, talking about political prisoners. Also depressing and exhausting.
Today, we met with an ethnic group organization (there are tons) in the morning, and went to a clinic for Burmese-- some travel days and brave the border crossing just to get treatment there because there is literally nothing in Burma (or there is for a price). And yet they offer so many kinds of care and are relatiely organized. They do a great, amazing service to 400-500 people per day. Most of their staff is volunteer. But the conditions are upsetting. Just like the rest of Thailand, there were dogs and chickens roaming about, as most of the buildings were open air/ semi-outdoors.
We later met with a group that directly helps Burmese women in bad situations of abuse or HIV/AIDS or other things, getting them safe houses or medicine (along with a million other services). But the best part of that trip was going to an orphanage they run. Just 20 minutes or so. We walked in the front gate and in a small concrete front 'yard' so to speak were attacked by delighted chidren. Absolutely beautiful children!
Finally, we went to the 'Friendship Bridge,' which connects Mae Sot to a border town on the Burma side of the Moei (sp?) River. Basically it looks like highway, and we could see migrant workers walking back to the Burma side from where we were standing on a walkway down below. During the rainy season the water levels rise to the walkway, but as it's the dry season right now, the riverbed next to the walkway (a couple hundred yards from the Burmese town) was full of grass and a shanty village which often sells drugs across the handrails into Thailand (although there are legitimate sales of sodas or food as well).

Jan 5, 2010

bwa ha ha!

Haha! We found an internet cafe! But I have no time right now, so I'll update later!

Jan 2, 2010

Jan 1, 2, 3: Long time no see!

Howdy folks! Sorry for the long wait, it took me a while to get to a computer!\

To finish up what happened on Jan 1, 2010, we made our way to Chiang Mai via the Nok airline after lunch (I personally was excited about getting to have south Indian dosas). Not a bad flight, and when enough taxis eventually showed up we went to the Riverside Inn, which is lovely and far less crowded than Suk 11. Together, we went out to dinner where Christy tried out the local dish "Kow Soi," which involves noodles, fried noodles, peppers, onions, and a meat/tofu in a broth-- semi-spicy and delicious!

Yesterday a man from Free Burma Rangers came to talk to us in the morning, first by showing us a powerpoint and talking with us about the specifics of cross-border aid to the Burmese, then showing us a short video they had compiled. Later, we went to a sacred wat (Buddhist temple) housing a relic in its 'cheda,' I believe called Wat Dan Suthep (although I'm not sure about that 'Dan'). The 'cheda' was a tall, gold covered shape, surrounded by circuambulating believers-- and some of our group! From there we went to a vegetarian restaurant for dinner (alas, our poor meat eaters!) and met Zoe, a woman working with an AU alum on a new book in the series 'Voices of Witness,

Dec 31, 2009

Jan 1: Saw wa di bi mai!!! (Happy New Year!)

Gooooooood morning, everyone! Well, good evening if you're reading this from the US. As I'm sure you already realized, I did not blog yesterday, due to the sheer amount of stuff we all ended up doing. No meetings again (which makes sense, I can't see anyone wanting to spend their holiday doing meetings). But we all rose from our beds and shined (more or less) as we treked out to a ferry that would take us to a pier next to the Grand Palace. Grand, yes. Tricky, yes.

The Palace was built in the 1700s if I'm not mistaken as a new residence for the king. Getting in in the 2000s is a bit of a snag though. Because of the holiday, people were out in droves despite incredible heat. Also, because of its status as a supre tourist destination, it came with all the fun of any highly respected cultural center: more than one ticket to get in, confusing lines, and some tourist traps. Alas, at least one of our number was told that her jeans would not suffice in protecting her modesty and was forced to 'rent' a ankle-length skirt (which I don't believe was returned, ha ha). Furthermore, we began to notice that the facility was free for Thais-- who do, as another one of us mentioned-- have more of a right to be there than any of us. When we first entered, we went into the temple complex, which houses the "Emerald Buddha" (actually jade, but that's a whole nother interesting story). It was immense and full of splendor. Enormous Thai-style buildings reverberated in the heat of the day, shining with mirrors, gold, and colorful artistry. The building which housed the jade Buddha statue with his golden throne was dark and huge and full to the brim with people (no pictures allowed, sorry guys!). Several surrounding buildings had lovely art on them as well, from depictions of the Lord Buddha's life to what appeared to be a history of the Thai kings.

Upon leaving that area, we moved on to the Palace complex itself. Guards with rifles and white uniforms stood around every gate. Statues of elephants lined the stairways. A large, trimmed garden sprawled out in the middle of it all, encircled by a drive large enough for several carriages and SUVs. We're talking big.

Generally, most of us moved on from the palace to nearby Wat Po, a famous temple housing an enormous reclining Buddha. And when I say enormous, I mean HUGE! It would take several of me (about 5 feet tall) stacked up on top of one another to reach the tip of his nose, let alone the top of his head. Depicted in gold, the reclining Buddha image is used to refer to his achievement of parinibanna/parinirvana, which is the state of being achieved by an enlightened being (having achieved nibanna/nirvanna already) once they 'die,' so to speak (althought the word 'dead' kind of miss represents the whole definition of nibanna and parinibanna). The overall concept is that this is the greatest achievement made by any man in our known history.

Devotees have many ways of showing their appreciation of his achievement at Wat Po, from leaving coins in the monks' alms bowls (lined up along the back wall) to burning incense to leaving little bits of gold leaf on smaller replicas of the statue to leaving flowers near the Buddha. Most of us decided to donate coins to the bowls of the monks who lived on the complex.

After seeing the Wat complex, most of us sought out lunch in some form or fashion. Shoshanna, equiped with a new parasol, lead myself and some others across the street to a small restaurant with some good eats for vegetarians and meat eaters alike. Lauren, Suzy, and others headed over the the street with many Westerners with a name I can't pronounce (Kow something or other) and found some yummy food there as well, along with some dresses for the girls and I believe a stuffed character from a Japanese cartoon show for Jon. From there, we all split up in odd-end directions, so whatever I say from here on out is subject to further story telling by others.

Shoshanna, Alexis and Amanda headed back the way we'd come, taking the ferry down to the main pier, connecting on the sky train, and making it back to the hostel with some time to plan for later events. Lauren found a shop that probably is owned by the same Israeli guy who owned her favorite shop where she lived and worked in Nepal. Meghan and I went to Ban Baat, a square where a few families still aid monks by making alms bowls without machines, in much the same way craftsmen have for thousands of years probably since long before the historical Buddha lived (it was amazing, and I highly recommend it to anyone. The head guy there was very friendly, had printed sheets describing their craft and heritage in English, showed us several beautiful bowls way beyond the means of an American student, and sold me a bowl he was in the midst of making, using the time that his work-peer finished it up to demonstrate how the process works. One pot, two days!).

Shortly after 4PM a group of us (all the 'vegies': Shoshanna, myself, Suzy, Lauren, Alexis, and some non-vegies: Amanda, Ben, Bri, Meghan) went out for tea in Central World, an enormous mall complex at the heart of the city, where all the New Years festivities and crowds would gather shortly (apparently, malls are kind of like the enormous plazas of Europe-- where everyone goes to gather. Or at least they like to fill the streets surrounding the malls with people and shrines and decorations). We only had an hour, but it was amazing! We each got one a piece of several sweets and delicacies, all delicious, some weird (whatever the purple thing the non-vegies got is just beyond me). Biscuits with whipped cream and strawberry syrup, marzipan, lemon curd mini-tarts, etc etc etc, along with our individual choices in tea. No need for dinner, this was it!

Due to time constraints, only those who didn't go to tea were able to get to a Muay Thai boxing match. Fan, Alex, Tom, and Christy (I'm pretty sure) all went and had a blast from what I hear! Although they were first misdirected to a rather abandoned Lumphini stadium, they ended up at another stadium closer to downtown and saw plenty of action. Sounds like one kid was knocked out in his first (of 5) rounds. Sitting in the second tier, they could see all the craziness of all the different levels. I believe the 3rd tier was described as being like hyenas they were so excited, making this deep 'aye' chanting sound! From there, I think they stopped at Suk 11 to change and then headed back out to the Chid Lom (central world) stop to see the 'ball drop' so to speak. Shoshanna, Meghan, Bri and I had already been over there during our (succesful!) mission to get a new camera charger for one of our number, and just at 7:30PM it was enormously crowded. Due to the early hour, I haven't heard what happened but I'm sure it was great!

I think Bri, Timmy, and Ben went to a nearby club later in the evening to bring in the new year. A group of us stayed near Suk 11, walking around and getting some ice cream, and stayed up talking as 2010 arrived.

10 years since the new millenium. Saw wa di bi mai! See ya in Chiang Mai!

Dec 30, 2009

Dec. 30: Excursions!

Well folks, today has been... interesting! And eventful! However, the peoples we were supposed to meeting at various times of the day all kinda bailed on us (New Year's is a big holiday here), so we were free to enjoy the cultural offerings of Bangkok. And we all did so, in many different ways. The day started with us all together, visiting the former home, now museum of an American architect who settled in Thailand in the first half of the 20th century, building a more-or-less traditional Thai style house, full of art and beautiful gardens. He disappeared in 1967 at the age of 61 (apparently a bad age for 'horses' according to area astrology), but his house really was gorgeous. Interesting note: there's a raised component of the wall that you have to step over wherever there are doors: 1 to keep babies from crawling off, 2 to stabalize the house of stilts, 3 it stops ghosts. There was even some Burmese art there, such as the Nats (local spirits). His name was Jim Thompson, I think, but I could be wrong.

From there, we all decided to go to Chinatown/Little India. However, not all of us took the same means of transportation. A group of about 8 of us (myself, Amanda, Alexis, Shoshoanna, Lauren, Timmy, Meghan, and Suzy) got a couple of tuk tuks to take us. Now a tuk tuk is like a motorcycle taxi thing. Cheap, but potentially unstable. The others (Thomas, Alex, Christy, Fan, Jon, Ben, Brianna...) decided to walk; on the map it didn't look that far. Well, on our tuk tuks, we realized just how far it was. Turns out the walkers ended up walking at least 5 miles today just trying to get to Little India! In this heat! Oy! They earned their dinner tonight!

Us tuk tuk-ers ended up in a couple groups, checking out the eats and shops, trying to learn (or to teach others how) to haggle prices, exploring the flower market, and enjoying the street vendors. Everyone was back at lovely Suk 11 by about 6PM (how I really don't know given the amount of things we all did today). Then by a brilliant act of finesse, Alexis got us reservations at a Crepe restaurant this evening, where we enjoyed our well-earned meals (some more than others!). Christie even got her's as flambe!

By the end of the evening, it was getting late and some of us were discussing foot massages. There are a lot offered here, so it isn't hard to shop around. Tomorrow we'll be going to a wat (Buddhist temple complex), possibly the Grand Palace, and enjoying New Years festivities.